JC Travels
May 15–19, 2019
Norway  ·  Week 269
Lysefjord towards Pulpit Rock — Norway scenic drive
Week 269  ·  Oslo to Jorpeland  ·  Erfjord  ·  Hardangerfjord  ·  Bergen  ·  Hemsedal

Norway
Scenic Drives

The beauty of Norway is that the whole country is a national park. There is no one single place that is a "10" like the Grand Canyon — but there are endless 8s and 9s, places that don't even show up on a map. We ended up driving almost 2,000 km. At first we stopped and got out, then stopped and took a picture, then just slowed down to take a picture — in the end we just stopped taking pictures. You do get spoiled quickly.

Background — Norway's National Scenic Routes

Norway has designated 18 National Scenic Routes (Nasjonale turistveger) to highlight the country's most spectacular driving landscapes. Each is marked with distinctive brown signs and features purpose-built viewing platforms, architect-designed rest areas, and interpretive installations. The routes were developed between 1994 and 2023 and now attract over 5 million visits annually. The southern routes — including Ryfylke (Jorpeland to Erfjord) and Hardanger — traverse fjord country through some of the world's most dramatic coastal scenery. Norway is also home to the world's most road tunnels per capita, with over 1,100 tunnels totalling more than 1,000 kilometres, including underwater and spiral sections and underground roundabouts where tunnels from different directions converge beneath the mountains.

Segment One  ·  Oslo to Jorpeland
Route map — Oslo to Jorpeland along the southern coast then north
First segment — Oslo to Jorpeland along the southern coast, then straight north. About 8 hours total. Key stops: Arendal and Kristiansand.

A lot of pictures so I put them into separate posts by segment so that if you ever go to Norway, it gives you an idea of where to go in the south. Key points on this segment were Arendal and Kristiansand. Another feature is that in Norway they have 18 official scenic routes — not the easiest to plot out. We ended up going on two. Once you are on them, there are little brown signs but otherwise no clues.

Arendal & Kristiansand
Arendal — first stop, Oslo to Jorpeland Arendal — first stop Norway
Kristiansand — Norway southern coast Kristiansand — Norway
Kristiansand — Norway southern coast Kristiansand — Norway
Arendal — first stop  ·  Kristiansand
Flekkefjord, Ferries & the Lysefjord
Norway southern coast road Norway southern coast
Coming right out of a tunnel — this view just after Kristiansand, Flekkefjord Norway Ferry across Hogsfjorden — Høle Norway
Sheep everywhere — Norway ferry crossing Ferry across Hogsfjorden — Norway
Ferry across Hogsfjorden — Norway The road to Høle — Norway
Just after ferry — the Lysefjord that Pulpit Rock overlooks, just before confluence with Hogsfjord Lysefjord towards Pulpit Rock — Eiane, Rogaland Norway
Coming out of a tunnel — Flekkefjord  ·  Ferry across Hogsfjorden  ·  Sheep everywhere  ·  Just after ferry — the Lysefjord that Pulpit Rock overlooks  ·  Lysefjord towards Pulpit Rock
Segment Two  ·  Jorpeland to Erfjord
Route map — Jorpeland to Erfjord, Ryfylke scenic route Norway
Second segment — Jorpeland to Erfjord and back in the afternoon, then to Stavanger the next day. Ryfylke scenic route.

We did an out-of-the-way loop early in the trip — great scenery but given all the driving we would do in subsequent days, we saw similar landscape and then the next day retraced our drive to get to Stavanger. In retrospect worth it on the first day when everything was new.

On the Ryfylke Loop — Out and Back

Initially a lot of farm and alpine lakes. The Hjelmelandsvågen ferry crossing is a good break from the driving. The turnaround near Erfjord is about as remote as we got on the whole trip.

Norway has 18 official scenic routes — not the easiest to plot out. Once you are on them there are little brown signs but otherwise no clues.

Initially a lot of farm lake and alpine lakes — Jorpeland to Erfjord Norway Ferry at Hjelmelandsvågen — Nesvik, Rogaland Norway
At turnaround near Erfjord — Marvik, Rogaland Norway Return trip on ferry — Nesvik, Rogaland Norway
Farm and alpine lakes  ·  Ferry at Hjelmelandsvågen  ·  Turnaround near Erfjord  ·  Return on the ferry
Segment Three  ·  Odda to Bergen
Route map — Odda to Bergen via Voss, Hardangerfjord Norway
Fourth segment — Odda to Bergen via Voss, crossing Hardangerfjord — the widest fjord in Norway. A lot to see in this segment but we didn't take many pictures.

One of the distinctive features of driving in Norway's fjord country is the tunnel system — long tunnels under the mountains, including intersecting tunnels with traffic circles underground. By the end of almost 2,000 km of driving, you just start treating them like normal road.

Long tunnels under the mountains — intersecting tunnels with traffic circles underground
Long tunnels under the mountains — intersecting with other tunnels and traffic circles underground
Segment Four  ·  Bergen to Hemsedal
Route map — Bergen to Hemsedal via Hardanger scenic route and Flåm
Fifth segment — Bergen to Hemsedal via the Hardanger scenic route on Hardangerfjord and eventually Flåm. The road to Flåm pretty unbelievable — similar to Yosemite Valley.
Near Tysse & Steinsdalsfossen
Near Tysse — Hardanger scenic route Norway Another near Tysse — Hardanger Norway
Steinsdalsfossen — famous because you can walk behind it Steinsdalsfossen — walk behind it, just like Silver Dollar City
Near Tysse  ·  Steinsdalsfossen — famous because you can walk behind it, just like Silver Dollar City
Hardangerfjord & Glacier Views
Norheimsund — Hardangerfjord Norway Norheimsund — Hardangerfjord Norway
Hardangerfjord — Steinstø, Hordaland Norway Hardangerfjord — Steinstø, Hordaland Norway
Hardangerfjord — Granvin Norway Hardangerfjord — highest point in the south covered in glacier
Hardangerfjord Norway Hardangerfjord Norway
Hardangerfjord  ·  Highest point in the south in the distance — covered in glacier
Road to Flåm — Voss & Waterfalls
Road to Flåm — Norway Road to Flåm — Norway
Voss Waterfall — Norway Road to Flåm — snowmelt creates a lot of waterfalls in the spring
Road to Flåm — pretty unbelievable, similar to Yosemite Valley
Voss Waterfall  ·  Road to Flåm — snowmelt creates a lot of waterfalls in the spring  ·  Road to Flåm — pretty unbelievable, similar to Yosemite Valley
Hemsedal AirBnB
AirBnB in Hemsedal — Norway AirBnB in Hemsedal — Norway
AirBnB in Hemsedal — another outstanding one

"At first we stopped and got out. Then we stopped and took a picture. Then just slowed down. In the end we just stopped taking pictures. You do get spoiled quickly."

Norway Scenic Drive Hardangerfjord Ryfylke Flåm Hemsedal
Week 269  ·  May 2019